OBERAMMERGAU, Germany — The visitors browse the intricately carved wooden Nativity sets or dive into some mouthwatering creamy Italian ice cream at the Eiscafe Paradiso. Thousands from the world over are descending on this picturesque Alpine village to see the famed Passionsspiele, or Passion Play, held here every decade for nearly 400 years.
In the cavernous Passion Play Theatre that seats about 5,000 people, an air of excitement takes hold as Jesus enters, riding on a live donkey on stage. Hundreds of men, women and children, dressed in cloaks of earthen hues, cry out before him, “Hosanna, Hosanna!” marking Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem and the start of His Passion — the arduous journey from Palm Sunday to the cross.
Later, a hush takes hold in the audience as Roman soldiers come to arrest Jesus, sending Him to a sham trial, brutal punishment and execution befitting a criminal.
“This was so powerful seeing the sweep of the Gospel story,” said Christine Dutton, who trains people ministering in the Anglican and Methodist churches in Britain. “All of the disciples fled really quickly from the stage when Jesus was arrested. What so struck me was the political nature of the whole Gospel story — the conflict between Jesus and the authorities,” she said.
“The Crucifixion scene was particularly well done. Such a gentle way they brought Jesus’ body down from the cross. The care that (was) taken,” she explained, referring to the long white fabric placed on the arms of the nearly 10-foot wooden cross. The fabric was used to deliver Jesus’ mangled body down to His mother, Mary, and His mournful followers.
“So often, week by week we use the lectionary; segment it or sanitize it. Actually, seeing that sweep of events all together is a powerful reminder of the overarching narrative of the story,” Dutton said. She added that the insertion of the Old Testament scenes, such as Moses and the burning bush, helped to provide context to the unfolding drama engulfing Christ: why He came into the world and died for sinners, but He was raised to new life.
“This was my fifth time coming to see the Passion Play, and I don’t mean fifth in one year. I think that explains it all,” fellow Briton Ruth Aspinall said.
“I liked it so much this time and found it simpler. I loved the Resurrection scene, never used before. It was just hinted at in the past. But this time, all the disciples come on stage, light candles. Mary is happy. Everyone sings hallelujah. It was very tastefully done and ended on a joyful note,” she said.
Oberammergau native Christian Stückl has directed the production for more than 30 years, several times reworking the script and modernizing it, including the removal of past anti-Semitic references.
“As a spectator you don’t really have to bring anything (in terms of religious understanding), you can just turn up,” said Stückl. “But as a director, if I didn’t have the belief and conviction that there is a certain power behind this story, behind this Jesus, I wouldn’t be able to tell this story. I wouldn’t need to tell it.”
Linda Taggart, a British retired teacher whose daughter-in-law is from Oberammergau, said she applauded the changes to the text made by Stückl, because not everyone in today’s audience fully knows the biblical account of Christ’s suffering, death and resurrection, once considered common knowledge in earlier times.
“They have to understand what the story is about and what’s its message. This is the most important message in the world,” said Taggart.
Stückl takes the lead actors and soloists to Israel for 10 days before play rehearsals begin to have them experience the places where Jesus walked and ministered, saying it impacts the performers and the audience.
“It forces us to examine the play anew; to ask: What does this have to do with us? When it dawns on the performers how relevant the lines still are, how strong they are, there is a chance that they will then pass that on to the audience,” he said.
For Oberammergau native Frederik Mayet, one of two actors who plays Jesus, conveying Christ’s message of love and hope to the audience is important and something of a sacred trust.
“We have to try to find the words that reach the people of today. We notice this now in this year’s production. People are really touched,” Mayet said.
“The power, joy, and enthusiasm we have on stage reaches the people in the auditorium automatically, and that’s something special. When the choir is singing, when there are hundreds of people on stage, sometimes it’s a magical moment,” said Mayet, who is portraying Jesus for the second time.
“The Passion Play ends with the Resurrection, but the message is contained in the message Mary Magdalene speaks,” Mayet said. “A woman has the last words on stage and delivers this message: Jesus brings the light, the fire into the world as a sign of hope.”